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Author Topic: Step-by-step written instruction for stepping stones?  (Read 180 times)
marilynjd5
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« on: May 27, 2010, 04:08:01 PM »

I have been reading about creating stepping stones.  I have so much scrap glass that could be used.  Now, I am all excited about creating some stepping stone.  I have no one around to get answers from. Sad  Are there step-by-step written instruction for stepping stones?  Thank you for your help.
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Lou Ann
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« Reply #1 on: May 27, 2010, 04:13:20 PM »

This is the process I have used for about 20 stepping stones; the majority of which we sold to very happy repeat customers...

Pick a work area where the mold can be left undisturbed for 12 hrs.

amounts indicated are for a round mold that is approx 13-14” and hex that is approx 17 ½” x 15”

Concrete Mix is Quikrete Ready-to-Use Concrete Mix No. 1101 (yellow bag, gray label) – I buy and 80 lb bag and get 4 or 5 stones (depends on how rocky it is)

Sand Mix is Quikrete Sand/Topping Mix No. 1103 (yellow bag, red label) – I buy a 40 lb bag and I’m getting 18-20 stones using the “half method described below”, I got 6-8 before I made the adjustment

1.   Verify “black line” shows around all the pieces – more is better than too little.  In glasseye I change the line thickness to 1/8” and I actually cut the pattern away from both sides of the line; smaller pieces I may leave some of the line on them to make them workable but then I cut more of the larger abutting pieces. On printed patterns that are too thin, I trace the line with a thick marker to make it wide enough for the concrete to get between the pieces

2.   Make sure pieces are taped to the pattern. Helps keep them in place when you put the contact paper on

3.  Grease mold with PAM – Vaseline and cooking oil also work. I use the cheapest cooking spray I can get at Walmart and I spray it really good.

4.    ¼- ½ ” between glass and mold edge is the “desired” fit. I prefer the ½” because if the glass shifts in the mold while you are doing any of the steps you don’t generally end up with the glass right at the end. I did a couple at first that the glass is now right at the edge and I’m afraid it is going to break some day

5.   Cover pattern with contact paper making sure tight against glass – cut off any overlap. Not only does the contact paper keep the pieces in place but it also helps to prevent concrete from getting in front of the glass in the mold (once you pour one this will make more sense)

6.   Turn the piece over and remove pattern and all tape.

7.   Place in mold making sure placed in center – contact paper down.

8.   Sift rocks out of concrete mix – want some rocks for strength. I sift the rocks out using a window screen and I do the whole bag at once and store it in a 5 gal bucket. I keep the large rocks in a plastic container for use later (I generally end up putting half of them out near the road when I get a new bag of concrete) and I put the really small ones that get caught on the top of the screen back in with the concrete. When I get to the step below that uses concrete, I add a few handfuls of rocks to the bucket (I try not to use the bigger pieces).

9.   SAND MIX:  put a little water into bucket, mix 6-8 cups with water to a cake mix consistency. (6 for round mold and 8 for hex mold) Because my stepping stones weren’t drying I actually use half sand and half concrete here (I resift the concrete to get the little rocks out because you don’t want any small rocks putting pressure between the pieces of glass); my mother is in MA and uses the original amounts with no issues.

10.   Pour half onto glass and rub into all the cracks – making sure there is mix between all the pieces. Add remainder. I generally use what it takes to cover the area (little less than half and once you do a few you’ll know how much you want). Really work it good into all the cracks this will help you get as smooth a top as possible. I generally put the glass into the center and put mix around the edges to hold it in place and then work it into all the center lines then I go back a remove the mix from the edges (just push it up onto the glass) and use my fingers to make sure the glass is still as centered as possible (I try to keep it a finger tip width away from the edges).

11.   Lift the mold and tap gently against workbench to get level and air out – go all the way around the mold. (rotate mold so you lift and tap every edge of it) – I generally do this a couple times

12.   Put plastic reinforcing into the mix and cover with double layer of paper towel to absorb water. Keep paper towels in place to hold plastic while mixing concrete. I buy the plastic reinforcing at Home Depot in the fencing area – I think he called it plastic chicken wire (I bought is so long ago that I can’t remember). I cut the reinforcing before I start the stepping stone and I generally leave it an inch or so smaller than the edge of the glass – I don’t want any green spots showing on the edges ?

13.   CONCRETE MIX:  put a little water into bucket add half concrete mix(14 total for hexagon, 12 total for round), blend together and add remaining mix and water to a banana bread consistency.

14.   Put all into mold.

15.   Pat with hands and tap like before (to level) until water comes to the surface. I do this a couple of times because the more air bubbles you get out the better off you will be.

16.   Wait about 20 minutes and absorb any water with paper towel.

17.   Wait about an hour and write date in back. I use a nail and if it doesn’t work well the first time I try, I just smooth it over and come back a little later.

18.   Let dry at least 12 hours before removing from mold. Do not move mold once the concrete is in it – you will get concrete between the contact paper and glass which causes the top to be uneven.

19.   Turn face down onto board holding stone in center so doesn’t fall out too fast. If doesn’t release, press the middle until feel it start to release. If still doesn’t release tap gently with rubber mallet. Reading this, it sounds a little confusing to me – the face is referring to the bottom of the stone. If you use enough PAM they come right out, I generally have the mold slide ride up when I try to lift it off

20.   Gently peel off contact paper.

21.   Work any loose cement back into the cracks. Brush off excess cement. Let dry overnight before you move it. I actually take some resifted concrete and water (really watery consistency) and I go over all the grout lines to make sure there are no popped air bubbles on the top and I try to fix any inconsistency in the edge area – sometimes the contact paper doesn’t get cut away good enough and it leaves a fold at the edge when the concrete goes on top

22.    Let sit for 30 days before sealing (my mom stands hers up against the wall, I generally try to leave them flat for at least a couple of weeks). I buy clear concrete sealer and brush it on. I generally do 3-4 coats on the top and sides and 2 coats on the bottom.  With the top, I know I have enough coats when the sand mix seems to stop abraiding (this is less of an issue now that I changed my ratio); this is never an issue with the bottom.

I do all of my concrete work with the mold set on the ground (I have a piece of plywood under it so I can pick it up and put it on my shelf for the overnight dry). I did my first 2 on the ground and they came out perfect and my third (first I sold) I did on a white plastic folding table and when I was doing the sand mix I heard what I thought was a snap but at that point there wasn’t much I could do and when I dropped it out of the mold there was a cracked piece so I went back to the ground and have had no problems since – my mom does hers on a really sold wood workbench and has had no problem.

As a side note, glass selection is probably the most important part of creating a beautiful stepping stone -- the concrete behind the glass can cause shadow and color changes so I tend to use more opaque glass. I also tend to use more Spectrum glass because it is cheaper and you don't lose the beauty of the premium glasses to the effects of concrete. I've posted some pictures to try and illustrate the changes concrete can cause...

Since I put this together, I have started leaving them in the mold for a couple of days (instead of just over night)... I actually had one not set up this winter and when I turned it over, all I had was a pile of mud and glass :-(

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marilynjd5
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« Reply #2 on: May 27, 2010, 05:05:35 PM »

Thank you!!
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Graham
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« Reply #3 on: May 27, 2010, 06:10:26 PM »

Lou Ann's instructions appear to be about as complete as all get out. That's about a days worth of typing for me, I hope Lou Ann is better than I am, or she's good at cut-and-paste.

I was just going to suggest a trip over to-

 http://www.siliconfolly.com/cgi-bin/forum/stone/follystone.pl

Stones, like most other things, have umpteen methods for every step. There may be further info over at Angel's Stones and Mosaic board. Another source of info, specifically about materials and concrete recipes. if it's still alive, would be Cole Sonafrank's

 http://www.elvesofester.com/mosaics.html

I don't know diddly about the subject, having just done 3 stones over 15 years ago, using instructions from a long lost book ("Tiffany Garden") so I can't offer much by way of advice myself.
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................ there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worthwhile doing as simply messing about in boats.

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Repairs and commissioned work only.
Lou Ann
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« Reply #4 on: May 27, 2010, 08:02:59 PM »

you're very welcome...

Lou Ann's instructions appear to be about as complete as all get out. That's about a days worth of typing for me, I hope Lou Ann is better than I am, or she's good at cut-and-paste.

Graham,

I'm great with copy and paste... I keep a set on the computer at all times so that way when I splash concrete on the ones in the garage, I can just print a new one...

LA
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bkr41
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« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2010, 09:31:40 AM »

Thanks Lou Ann!!!
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Marsha
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« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2010, 05:24:16 PM »

how about a copy of them in the tutorial section.  Grin
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Rebecca
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« Reply #7 on: May 31, 2010, 06:49:04 PM »

You can also do "Direct Method" mosaics like Jothi's elephant.  You first find a solid substrate and glue your glass to it.  Then you grout with sanded grout that has a polymer material in it.  This makes it stand the temperature changes better.  You can get lots of colors of the grout at any tile or big box hardware store.  After it dries and cures, use a sealer for tile and grout (also from tile or hardware store) and you are set for anything!

Rebecca
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